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Aconcagua Guanacos Route
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- Summiting the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere
- Better spacing of camps allows for better acclimatization
- Exploring the wilds of the Guanacos Valley
- Seeing few other parties on a mountain well-known for crowding
- Traverses the mountain up the Guanacos Route, down the regular route
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Introduction |
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| Aconcagua, at 6,959 meters (22,831 feet) is a South American giant and one of the famed, "7 Summits." Unfortunately, the combination of being the highest mountain in the Western Hemisphere, easy access to the mountain with a short trek, and the fact that the regular route is a walk-up, means high traffic, and littered and crowded camps, making climbing Aconcagua for 95% of climbers, a bit of a circus. We don't guide the regular route.
Recently, an alternative route, The Guanacos Valley Route has been developed. It's everything that the regular route isn't-- Isolated, wild, and beautiful. Even the approach is spectacular. The climbing is, at all times, non-technical, and you get a real feel of an expedition, not a circus. Best of all, spacing in elevation between the camps is much better on the Guanacos route, allowing for better acclimatization. |
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Description |
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| We meet on day one in Mendoza, Argentina staying one night at a 5-star hotel and drive to the trailhead and a hotel at Penetentes. Over the next three days, we trek to Casa Piedra, then to Plaza Argentina, then finally to Base Camp at 13,000 feet.
After an acclimatization day, we make our first carry of supplies and gear to Camp 1 at 15,200 feet, then return to Base Camp. The next day we move on and sleep at Camp 1. The next day we make a carry to Camp 2 16,500 feet, and sleep at Camp 1. We then move on to Camp 2 to sleep and then make a carry the next day to Camp 3 at 17,800 feet, returning to sleep at Camp 2. We move on to sleep the next day at Camp 3. The next day we make a carry to High Camp at 19,200 feet, and return to sleep at Camp 3. Finally we make our way to High Camp to prepare for our summit day. We have built several days into the plan to allow for bad weather and can spend up to two days waiting for the right time to summit if we have to.
On a clear Summit day, you'll be able to see all the way to the Pacific Ocean. From there, we descend the regular route over two days to Plaza de Mulas and then to Penetentes, finally, we end our trip back at our 5-star hotel in Mendoza.
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Further Reading |
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Summitpost.org page on Aconcagua
Wikipedia.org page on Aconcagua
Aconcagua, The Stone Sentinal, by Thomas E. Taplin discusses an expedition on the crowded regular route.
The Highest Andes;: A record of the first ascent of Aconcagua by Edward Arthur Fitzgerald
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Summary
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| Location |
Argentina |
| Activities |
Trekking, non-technical Mountaineering |
| Max Altitude |
6,959 meters (22,831 feet) |
| Total Days |
18 |
| Difficulty |
Extremely Strenuous |
| Departures |
2/5/2007
11/5/2007
12/5/2007 |
| Pricing |
| 9-12 |
$4,500 |
| 5-8 |
$4,900 |
| 2-4 |
$5,300 |
Price per person,
based on group size |
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Itinerary |
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| Day 1 |
Meet in Mendoza |
| Day 2 |
Drive to Penetentes
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| Day 3 |
Trek to Casa Piedra |
| Day 4 |
Trek to Plaza Argentina |
| Day 5 |
Trek to Base Camp |
| Day 6 |
Carry to Camp 1,
Return to Base Camp |
| Day 7 |
Camp 1 |
| Day 8 |
Carry to Camp 2,
Sleep at Camp 1 |
| Day 9 |
Camp 2 |
| Day 10 |
Carry to Camp 3,
Sleep at Camp 2 |
| Day 11 |
Camp 3 |
| Day 12 |
Carry to High Camp,
Sleep at Camp 3 |
| Day 13 |
High Camp |
| Day 14 |
Possible summit day |
| Day 15 |
Possible summit day |
| Day 16 |
Descend regular route to Plaza de Mulas |
| Day 17 |
Trek out to Penetentes |
| Day 18 |
Drive to Mendoza |
Details
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| Sleeping |
2 Nights 5-star hotel in Mendoza, 2 Nights hotel at Penetentes, 14 nights expedition-style in tents |
| Transport |
Vehicle to/from Airport and to/from Penetentes |
| Group Size |
Max of 12 |
| Guides |
Western Guide
Local Guide |
| Mules |
Carry gear to base camp |
| You Carry |
Small day pack on carry to base camp and full pack sharing communal gear above base camp |
| Included |
$600 Climbing permit, Experienced leaders, All Lodging, 3 Meals a Day, Group Transport to/from Airport, Pack Animals and Handlers, Group Equipment, Satellite Communication, Medical Supplies |
| Not Included |
International Flights, Cost of Visas, Vaccinations, Tips, Bar Bills, Refreshments, Laundry, Telephone Calls, Souvenirs, Meals beyond 3 per day, Travel Insurance, Personal Clothing and Equipment, Foreign Airport Taxes, Excess Baggage |
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